Welcome to Laugharne, a captivating coastal village steeped in literary history and natural beauty.
Immerse yourself in the footsteps of the legendary poet, Dylan Thomas, as you stroll through charming streets and soak in the breathtaking coastal vistas across the Taf estuary.
I recently visited the village myself to coincide with Dylan Thomas Day and, in this article, I’ll share my favourite things to do in Laugharne whether you're a literature enthusiast, a nature lover, or simply seeking a tranquil escape.
1. Visit the Dylan Thomas Boathouse and Writing Shed
As you’re about to find out, most of the top activities in Laugharne revolve around Dylan Thomas in one way or another, starting with the iconic boathouse. Thomas was born in Swansea, but later in life moved to Laugharne where he lived with his wife Caitlin and bought up their three children in the Boathouse.
Today, the boathouse is owned by Ceredigion Council and has been turned into a museum. Inside, you can explore the charming rooms of the boathouse where Dylan Thomas spent his time with a lot of his original furniture.
There are displays where you can learn more about his life and downstairs is a café where you can sip a coffee and enjoy the breathtaking views that once fueled his imagination. Find the latest prices and opening times here.
On your way to the boathouse, look out for his writing shed which we mistakenly thought was the boathouse to begin with! This is the small shed where Dylan penned his poems and is thought to have inspired Roald Dahl (another famous Welsh person) to create something similar.
2. Explore the ruins of Laugharne Castle
Laugharne Castle is a medieval fortress, overlooking the scenic Taf Estuary. On a visit to the castle, you can explore the well-preserved ruins, climb to the top of the ancient towers for breathtaking panoramic views and wander among the small castle gardens.
In one of the towers, there’s an information panel which tells the story of the castle’s history from its beginnings as a Norman stronghold to its revival by the three Guys (literally three men called Guy).
Look for the summerhouse at the castle which was used by both Dylan Thomas and another Welsh writer, Richard Hughes, to overcome writers block. You can hear from them both on a fake radio in the summerhouse.
The castle is owned by CADW so it’s free to visit if you’re a member. See opening times and prices here.
3. Embark on the enchanting Dylan Thomas Birthday Walk
Follow the path of the legendary poet through captivating landscapes that inspired one of his famous poems, Poem in October, which he wrote on his 30th birthday, hence the name of the walk. The poem is about his love of Laugharne and getting older.
The route begins in Green Banks car park beneath Laugharne Castle! From here, the walk is well signposted, you’ll head in the opposite direction of the castle, along the estuary and through the forest to the shoulder of Sir John’s Hill.
On the way, you’ll be able to see picturesque views of the coast and information panels indicate key landmarks such as the boathouse and the castle. Each information panel also has part of the poem on it and some facts about Dylan.
It’s a linear route so you’ll have to double back along the same path. It took me around 45 minutes in total from the car park and back again.
4. Pay your respects at Dylan Thomas’ grave
Dylan Thomas is buried at St Martin’s Church so you can visit and pay your respects to the iconic poet by making a pilgrimage to his grave.
You’ll find it in the overspill graveyard so you’ll need to cross the bridge as soon as you reach the entrance. You’ll easily spot his grave as it’s a white wooden cross instead of the typical gravestone, you can see it in the image above. This Google Maps pin also marks the spot.
There is a car park at the church although it is paid. You can also walk there from the centre of Laugharne. Please remember that this is a graveyard so be respectful as you visit.
5. Enjoy a steak at Brown’s Hotel
Brown’s is the famous hotel in the middle of Laugharne which was the go-to watering hole for Dylan Thomas. In fact, he famously left the bar’s phone number as his own.
Today, Brown's Hotel stands as a charming 4-star boutique hotel, offering a delightful blend of history and modern comfort.
The hotel’s restaurant, Dexter’s at Browns, is best known for its steaks. It’s not the cheapest food in the village, but it’s certainly the best and comes accompanied by a cosy and inviting atmosphere that adds an extra touch of charm to your evening meal in Laugharne.
See Dexter's at Browns Instagram page to check out some of their mouthwatering dishes.
6. Relax on Pendine Sands beach
Just 10 minutes from the centre of Laugharne is Pendine Sands, a huge 7-mile stretch of golden beach that’s perfect for a day of relaxation.
It’s one of the few beaches in Wales you can drive your car on which makes a family beach day far simpler. Due to several holiday resorts near the beach, it has excellent facilities too including a café, toilets, and play areas.
Pendine Sands holds quite a place in history as the place where several land speed records were set between 1924 and 1927. Two Welshmen competed for the title with the highest record set here being 174mph by Malcolm Campbell.
Next to the beach is the Museum of Landspeed which tells the tale of these records. It was closed for renovation and was due to reopen in Spring 2023, however, there is still no news of an opening date so watch this space.
Related Questions
Is Laugharne Worth Visiting?
Yes, Laugharne is worth visiting and featured in my guide to the best things to do in West Wales. This tiny village is home to a majestic castle and picturesque views. It is also renowned as the former home of the celebrated poet, Dylan Thomas. You can immerse yourself in his world by exploring his old home, his writing shed, and taking his birthday walk.
Is the Tin Shed Experience Still Open?
No, the Tin Shed Experience in Laugharne is now closed. This was an old tin shed with memorabilia from the First and Second World Wars.
Can I Do the Laugharne Town Trail?
You’ll notice that I’ve not included the Laugharne Town Trail in this guide, that’s because several of the plaques related to the trail have now been removed. The trail was a simple treasure hunt around the town with clues leading to the next location. You can still pick up a map from reception in the castle and follow the trail, but it won’t be as fun.
Published: 21 May 2023 · Last updated: 5 June 2023