Nestled at the northern end of the Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) National Park lies the charming market town of Hay-on-Wye, famous for its annual literary festival and a vast selection of second-hand bookshops.
But there's more to this adorable little town than just books as I discovered on my latest visit.
In this guide, I’ll share some of my favourite things to do in Hay-on-Wye so that you can plan the perfect trip to this idyllic corner of the world.
Map of Hay-on-Wye
Best Things To Do
1. Explore Hay-on-Wye’s famous bookshops
Hay-on-Wye's famous bookshop culture is what put it on the map. The town has an unusually high number of bookshops, earning it the title 'town of books'.
Despite being a small market town with a population of around 2,000 residents, I counted at least 14 different bookshops open to the public, plus trade bookshops, bookbinders and more.
There are general bookshops, antique bookshops, and some that are dedicated to a certain genre. Even if you don't read, it's a unique experience wandering around the town which seems to have stood still in a time before Amazon.
Here are a few of my favourites:
Richard Booths Books – The original bookshop in Hay-on-Wye spread across three floors with new and used books.
Hay Bookshop Cinema - The biggest secondhand bookshop in Hay with every genre covered. If variety is important, go here.
Murder and Mayhem - Whether you are into crime fiction or not, this is a must-visit bookshop and probably my favourite in Hay. If not only for its quirky decor.
Also Read: Best Bookshops in Hay-on-Wye
2. Tour Hay Castle
The current Hay Castle, or what’s left of it, was built in the 11th or 12th century back when Hay was a walled town known as Hay Anglicana. Through its early years, it was involved in many conflicts including Owain Glyndwr’s rebellion and the Battle of the Roses.
When the fighting calmed down, it became a mansion and passed through many wealthy families until it landed in the hands of Richard Booth who turned it into one of the first bookshops.
Today, it’s in the hands of the Hay Castle Trust. There's a shop and cafe on the ground floor which are free to visit. But there's a fee for the exhibitions and galleries.
I took one of the daily tours which run at 11am and 2pm for an extra fee. The tour will teach you about the history of the town and some of the most important characters that made it into what we see today.
The tour is excellent for history buffs like myself, but be prepared for information overload - it might not be a great activity for children. No need to book ahead, just turn up and pay on arrival.
3. Paddle down the River Wye
The River Wye River passes close to Hay-on-Wye and is popular for kayaking, canoeing, and paddleboarding. Expect beautiful scenery and calm conditions which make it accessible for beginners or anyone seeking a leisurely paddle.
Celtic Canoes - Begin your canoeing adventure a little further upstream in Glasbury. With the half-day package, you’ll canoe downstream for 2-3 hours, finishing in hay-on-wye. Or with the full-day package, you'll continue on to Whitney-on-Wye.
Don’t worry, you won’t need to paddle back up the river again afterwards. The package includes transport for you and the canoes back to the start point afterwards. It also includes the hire of the canoe and paddles, a lifejacket, and a dry bag to keep your gear safe throughout the day.
4. Climb to the top of Bronllys Castle
Just outside of the small village of Bronllys, around 10 minutes from Hay by car, is Bronllys Castle. It was originally a motte and bailey castle built in the 11th or 12th century, but all that remains today is the stone tower.
The castle is unmanned and free to visit. You can climb to the top where you’ll get an incredible view across the Wye Valley. There's a small layby across the road from the castle where you can park for free.
It’s suitable for dogs and children, but prams and wheelchairs will have to admire the fortress from the bottom because there are lots of steps.
The castle is an impressive structure, but your visit shouldn't take much longer than 10 minutes or so. I recommend combining the castle with other activities nearby, such as:
- Talgarth Mill - A restored mill with a visitor centre and bakery
ㅤ - The Old Railway Garden Centre - a family-run farm shop, restaurant, and garden centre
ㅤ - Honey Cafe - A super cute cafe with an interesting menu containing Tex-Mex and traditional dishes.
5. Take the River and Rail Trail circular walk through The Warren
If you fancy something a little less demanding, the river and rail walk is a short circular walk that starts and ends in the centre of Hay-on-Wye, running alongside the River Wye and an old railway line.
The route will take you through an area of riverside meadows known as The Warren because it was thought to have been used for breeding rabbits during medieval times. Rabbits can still be seen here today.
Even if you don’t want to complete the walk, on a warm day, you can take a car to The Warren and enjoy a picnic among the beautiful meadows.
Other things you may encounter on the route include St Mary’s Church, Wye Beach, and the site of Hay-on-Wye railway station which once served the area before being dismantled in the 60s.
Find the full route map here.
6. Hire a bicycle from Driver Cycles
National Cycle Route 42 runs past Hay and later joins Route 8 so the area is great for cyclists. If you don’t have your own bicycle, you can hire mountain bikes or e-bikes from Drover Cycles in Hay.
If you want a nice easy bike ride, cycle down to Glasbury (the same place with the canoeing I mentioned earlier) using National Cycle Route 42 and return back along the main road. You’ll enjoy wide flat roads and the journey should take around an hour without any stops.
If you are hiring from Drover, the minimum hire term is a full day so you might want a longer route. In this case, you could cycle to Bronllys Castle (also mentioned earlier) or even all the way down to Llangorse Lake near Brecon.
Ask the friendly guys at Drover Cycles for other recommended routes.
7. Hike up Hay Bluff and Lord Hereford’s Knob
From that title, you might be wondering what on Earth I’m talking about. Hay Bluff is the name of a hill just south of Hay. On a clear day, you’ll be rewarded with stunning views over the Brecon Beacons towards Hay.
You can park at Hay Bluff car park (on Google Maps here) and walk to the top. Rather than coming back down the same route, you can make it into a circular route via the adjacent hill summit, Twmpa (shown above), which translates literally as lump, but is more affectionately known by the locals as Lord Herefords Knob, for reasons which I’ve been unable to discover.
The route with the two summits is moderate and should take around 3-4 hours in total. Find the full route here.
8. Visit Llanthony Priory
Llanthony Priory is the ruins of a former Augustinian priory that's thought to date back to the beginning of the 12th century. It was thought to be one of the grandest buildings in this region at the time.
The ruins are very picturesque and have even caught the eye of J. M. W. Turner who painted them in the 18th century. The ruins are one of the best spots for stargazing in the national park too.
There's a car park beside Llanthony Priory so iit's very easy to get there, it's free too!
It's a good 45-minute drive from Hay-on-Wye so I recommend combining it with the Hay Bluff-Lord Herefords Knob walk mentioned before. The start point for this walk is about halfway between the two.
9. Join a group hike with Walk Hay
If you don’t fancy planning your own route, you can have a knowledgeable local guide from Walk Hay join you.
They know the local paths so you can focus on having a great time while they take care of navigating. Walks are available in the local area around Hay or further afield across the rest of the national park.
If there is a large group of you such as a family or group of friends, it’s possible to arrange a private walking tour from 1.5 hours up to a full day of hiking. You can tailor the tour to your needs so it’s great for any ability.
If you’d rather join a group tour (more cost-effective if you’re travelling alone or in a couple), then they run several per month. These are always changing so you can check the upcoming hikes on their website and book in advance to guarantee a space.
10. Shop Hay’s independent high street
Hay is a treasure trove of independent stores, part of what gives it that old-worldly charm.
If you’re more into antiques and collector items, then check out Hay Antiques Market where you’ll find everything from clocks to jewellery. I must admit, the amount of glassware in here made me very nervous so it’s not ideal if you have kids.
If you're more interested in locally made products, there are plenty of independent craft stores across the town too. My favourite is Bluestone Gallery where every collection has the maker's story alongside it. They sell glassware, paintings, jewellery, and more. It's a great place to grab a gift to take home.
11. Eat Michelin-star food at Chapters
There are only two restaurants in Wales to have a Michelin green star and one of those happens to be in Hay. The award recognises restaurants that have demonstrated outstanding sustainable practices.
This tiny restaurant has an intimate rustic-cum-vintage style and focuses on locally sourced foods with a set menu that rotates every six weeks.
If Michelin-star food isn’t for you, Hay has an incredible foody scene with lots of quirky cafes and restaurants as well as more traditional pub food. It’s also surprisingly good for vegetarian/vegan food and gluten-free.
At the end of this guide, I've listed some of my favourite places to eat.
12. Go pony trekking with Radnor Riding
Just a few minutes’ drive from Hay is the small village of Clyro which is home to Radnor Riding who will offer you the unforgettable experience of exploring the Wye Valley and the Black Mountains on horseback.
Don’t worry if you’ve never rode a horse before, they offer a range of tailored rides for all levels of experience, so you can enjoy a leisurely ride along country lanes or a more exhilarating canter across the hills.
They offer morning and afternoon rides available seven days a week (during peak season). Check out their website for more information and to book ahead.
13. Follow the Hay-on-Wye Treasure Map Trail
If you're looking for something to do in Hay-on-Wye with kids, then these illustrated trasure maps are a great way to keep everyone engaged with the town around them. In the Hay-on-Wye map, there are 12 treasures that include ancient carvings, historic statues, and sculptures.
Using the map, you'll have to navigate your way around to find the treasures and stop the story-loving spectres from taking over the town. The map is aimed at 5-12 year olds and should take around 90 minutes to complete.
You can buy a map directly from the Treasure Map Trails website or you can also purchase one from Richard Booths Bookshop.
14. Taste gin at Hay Distillery
The small Hay Distillery in the middle of town is where the award-winning Wild Knapp gin is made. They've also recently opened up a shop in the town where you can go to taste some of their gin and see some of the equipment used to make it.
Even if you're not a big fan of gin, they serve up a range of cocktails and have other drinks too.
The distillery shop is open Wednesday to Sunday which didn't coincide with my visit, but if you happen to visit during open hours, it looks like it would be a great place to stop by.
15. Go to the Hay Festival, one of the UK's biggest literature festivals
If you really want to see Hay-on-Wye in all its glory, I recommend going to Hay Festival, the huge 10-day literature festival held in the town each year. In 2023, the festival is between 25 May–4 June.
At Hay Festival, expect storytelling, book signings, speakers from across the industry, film previews, and musical performances. There is also a mini children's festival known as Hay Fever.
The event has attracted some of the biggest names from the world of literature and beyond, including Stephen Fry, Jude Law, Carrie Fisher, and Judi Dench to name a few.
Coverage from the festival is also broadcast on the BBC and it’s been the inspiration for other similar events across the world.
Also Read: Best Festivals in Wales
Where To Stay
The Swan at Hay (££) - Located within about a 5-minute walk of the town centre, the Swan has elegantly designed rooms and a beautiful garden.
Black Mountain Lodge (££) - If you don't mind staying away from the town centre, Black Mountain Lodge is a 4-star B&B in a converted stone building. It's 5 minutes from Hay by car.
Where To Eat
Tomatitos Tapas Bar - For home-cooked food, inspired by Spanish tapas. One of the top-rated restaurants in Hay-on-Wye.
Chapters - For an intimate fine-dining experience in a converted church. This restaurant has been highlighted by Michelin for its sustainable approach.
The Cosy Cafe - A cute cafe in the heart of Hay-on-Wye serving up coffee and sweet treats.
Some Tips for Visiting Hay
- Surprisingly for a rural town, everywhere accepts card so don’t worry about bringing cash.
ㅤ - Tuesday is the worst day to visit as many shops will be closed (although the bookshops and castle are still open). The busiest days are weekends and Thursday which is market day.
ㅤ - There’s a large pay and display car park near the public library (Google Maps pin). There’s also a lesser-known free car park near St Mary’s Church (Google Maps pin) but keep in mind that it's closed on Thursdays.
ㅤ - Allow at least one full day to explore the town of Hay-on-Wye with its bookstores, castle, and independent shops. If you want to get out and explore the hiking trails or cycling routes around the area, you'll need a good 2-3 days.
Published: 6 April 2023 · Last updated: 1 January 2024