How To Visit Eglwys Cwyfan [Anglesey’s Little Church in the Sea]

Eglwys Cwyfan, or St Cwyfan's Church, is a small medieval church that sits on the tidal island called Cribinau, just off the western coast of Anglesey.

During high tide, the church is completely surrounded by water, which is why it’s earned the nickname Eglwys Bach Y Môr, or Little Church in the Sea. It’s certainly a scenic spot and one of the lesser-known things to do on Anglesey.

I visited the church as part of my trip around Anglesey, and in this guide, I’ll explain exactly how you can too.

Can You Visit Eglwys Cwyfan?

Yes, you can visit Eglwys Cwyfan, however, it’s only accessible across a causeway that can be crossed at low tide. You can’t visit Eglwys Cwyfan at high tide because it will be surrounded by water. There is a nearby car park at Trac Môn which is about a 20-minute walk to the church.

Where to Park?

There is a free car park you can use to visit Eglwys Cwyfan. Head towards the Anglesey Circuit (Trac Môn) and look for the Fisherman’s Car Park. This is a small grass car park on your right as you first enter Trac Môn.

The below sign directs you to the car park, although it can be easily missed when the grass is overgrown. If you reach barriers or a ticket office, you’ve gone too far. You do not need to pay for the car park or to visit the church.

How To Visit Eglwys Cwyfan

1. Check the Tidal Times

Before you go, make sure that you check the local tidal times, you can check here. If you want to visit the church up close, you’ll need to visit around low tide as the church is unreachable at high tide.

Of course, if you want a photo opportunity of the church surrounded by water, then plan your visit at high tide. Of course, I did both, here’s what it looks like at high and low tide:

2. Park at the Fisherman’s Car Park

See my earlier instructions to find the free car park. Look out for the big bump in the road leading up to the car park.

3. Follow the Trail Towards the Coast

As you leave the car park, take a left so that you briefly walk back the way you drove in. After about 30m, you should see the below gate on your right. Head through this gate and follow the trail.

The trail is easy and well-trodden with beautiful views across the Anglesey countryside. You might even spot the occasional rabbit running past. It’s about a 20-minute walk in total from the car park to the church.

A way marker for the ‘Anglesey Coastal Path’ should give you some reassurance that you’re on the right path, eventually, you’ll start to see the coastline in the distance too.

4. Cross the Causeway to the Church

Once you reach the coast, you’ll need to cross the causeway to reach the church. Hopefully, you’ve visited at low tide and the causeway will be completely clear.

Be careful, especially if travelling with children, as the causeway can be very slippery. Finally, ascend the small staircase and you’ll arrive on the island.

Can You Go Inside the Church?

No, Eglwys Cwyfan is no longer in use as a day-to-day church and has been locked up. However, it’s said to still be in use for wedding ceremonies and baptisms (source: Wikipedia). There were some buntings up at the time I visited, indicating that there had been recent celebrations at the church.

I did manage to poke my camera through the window for a brief look at the inside.

History of Eglwys Cwyfan

It’s an interesting concept to have a church on a small tidal island, but this was not the original plan.

When it was built back in the 12^th century, it was constructed on a peninsular. But over time, the peninsular was eroded by the sea, leaving the church stranded on an island.

The 17^th-century map by John Speed, an English cartographer, shows the cliffs still running around the church, so it’s estimated that the majority of the erosion has taken place since then.

As the church became difficult to reach, a causeway was built to help churchgoers reach the island, even during high tide, the remains of this are still visible today.

In the 19^th century, the erosion came closer to the church to the point that some gravestones started to fall into the water. At this point, an artificial stone wall was built around the church to protect it (source: S.K. Haslett and E.A Bryant, Atlantic Geology, Vol. 47, 2003).

Only a small portion of the original 12^th-century building remains today. Most of the other walls were rebuilt during the 14^th century. The building was originally a grey colour but was whitewashed in 2006 as part of renovations (source: National Churches Trust).