If you’re looking for a walk that combines legends and dragons with waterfalls and breathtaking views, then this is the one for you.
In this article, I’ll explain exactly how to complete this short walk near Beddgelert including where to park, how much it costs, and what to expect from the trail.
About the Trail
Not only does the Dinas Emrys trail provide you with a stunning panoramic view Llyn Dinas (Dinas Lake) and the Nantgwynant valley, but it’s also a route with some historical significance which makes it even more exciting.
It is said that two dragons, one white and one red, lived alongside an underground lake beneath the hilltop at Dinas Emrys. They were awoken by King Vortigens men during the 5th century as they tried to build a castle on the hilltop
The two dragons fought one another but the red dragon won and became a symbol for King Vortigern. This is why there is now a red dragon on the Welsh flag.
This is a quick summary, but the full story is shared later in the article.
How Long is the Dinas Emrys Walk? Is it Difficult?
This is a short trail that’s just over 3km from the visitor centre to the peak. As a moderately fit adult, it took me 40 minutes to reach the peak and around 25 minutes to return to the car park, allowing for photo opportunities on the way, of course.
This is a moderate route. The path is well trodden and signposts along the way ensure you won’t get lost. Whilst most of the route is very easy, there is a particular part near the peak that requires you to briefly scramble up some rocks which is why it’s given a moderate rating.
The route is not suitable for wheelchairs or pushchairs because there are steps and a stile you must climb over.
Although this is a well-trodden trail, it can still get very muddy. I visited on a dry day in the middle of summer and it was still muddy. You should definitely wear hiking boots for this trail.
Essential Information
Where to Park?
Parking for the Dinas Emrys Trail is at the National Trust Craflwyn and Beddgelert visitor centre. Parking is free and there is ample space. There's a link to the Google Maps location here.
Reaching the Dinas Emrys Trail by Public Transport
It’s possible to reach the Dinas Emrys trail using public transport. There is a bus stop right outside the visitor centre at the start of the trail. The bus stop is serviced by the S4 Snowdon Sherpa. You can find the latest timetables here.
Although you won’t see the stop named on the timetable, it’s located between Beddgelert and Nant Gwynant, remember to press the stop button so that the driver knows to drop you off.
Facilities at the Visitor Centre
There isn’t much at the visitor centre so don’t expect big things. There’s one toilet for men and women (which is suitable for disabled people too), some outdoor benches and a small indoor exhibition where you can read about the different trails and learn the history behind the Dinas Emrys trail.
It is an unmanned visitor centre with no members of staff. You cannot buy food and the tap water in the toilet is not recommended for drinking so make sure you bring plenty of snacks and water with you.
If you want to buy maps for the trail, you cannot do this at the visitor centre, although several places are selling them in Beddgelert including the tourist information office.
How to Hike the Dinas Emrys Trail
Here is my step-by-step guide following my recent visit:
1. Begin at the National Trust Craflwyn and Beddgelert visitor centre
The start of the trail is at the top right of the car park from where you entered, next to the large map. From here the trail is easily waymarked, make sure you follow the red trail that says ‘Our Heritage – Princes of Gwynedd’ as shown here.
2. Head past the dragon bench
Less than 5 minutes into the trail, you’ll come across your first dragon. But this is no fire-breathing beast, it’s an exquisitely carved oak bench in the shape of a dragon.
Your legs won’t be tired just yet, but it’s still a nice spot to stop for a dragon selfie. Keep following the path past the bench and head up the steps to the right.
On your way, you’ll spot the first waterfall of the day where a small stream trickles over the rock edge.
3. Cross the stone bridge at Merlins Pool
After around 20 minutes of walking, you’ll cross over a small wooden bridge and head through a gate where the path continues across private property. From this point onwards, dogs should be kept on leads.
Soon after, you’ll stumble upon the second, and most impressive waterfall of the day, known as Merlin’s Pool after the famous magician who featured in the Dinas Emrys tale as a child (full story below).
After the water crashes down into Merlin’s Pool, it trickles away under a stone bridge which is an excellent place to stop and get a photo.
4. Climb over the stile
From the stone bridge, the path is very easy to follow up the mountainside and the views really open up. At one point you’ll see a sign for ‘Hafod Y Llan’, don’t follow this sign, it’s for the farmland and campsite owned by the National Trust. Instead, continue right.
You’ll eventually come to this stile over the stone wall which you need to climb over, as gracefully as possible but be careful as these stiles can be slippery in the wet weather.
5. Follow the trail to the top and locate the fortress
Now for the final part of the trail, this is where it briefly gets a little tricky as you’ll need to climb up these rocks. But it’s worth it trust me.
There’s no marker to let you know when you’re at the top, but you’ll know as soon as you’re greeted with these panoramic views including the stunning lake, Llyn Dinas.
The location of Vortigens fortress isn’t immediately obvious, but if you look for the uniquely shaped tree shown in the below image, you’ll be able to locate it much more easily. You’ll see the remains of a stone tower which archaeologists discovered had been rebuilt many times during its life.
We can compare it to the artist's impression of the tower which was displayed on the wall in the visitor centre.
If you look carefully, you’ll also find a small pool of water and another building remains located not far from the tower. Remember, there may be dragons sleeping beneath the surface so tread carefully.
The Route Back
The Dinas Emrys walk is not circular so you’ll head back the same way you arrived, there are arrows to direct you as there were on the way up.
You may come across a fork in the track that you hadn’t noticed on the way up as shown in the below image, you’ll want to head left and down instead of straight on here.
The History of the Dinas Emrys Trail [Full Story]
So, as promised, here’s a little more about the story behind the Dinas Emrys trail. The story comes from chapter 42 of the Historia Brittonum, a history book about the indigenous British people written around 828AD
Vortigern, King of the Britons, was told by his wise men to build a castle on a hill near Caernarfon in North Wales. But his men and the materials for the castle kept disappearing.
He asked his wise men why this kept happening and they told him he needed to sacrifice a child without a father. So, he set out to find such a child and came across a young boy named Emrys from Camarthen. The child warned him that beneath the hill were two sleeping dragons and an underground lake.
Vortigern instructed his men to keep digging and they eventually found the lake and two dragons, one red and one white. The two dragons fought and eventually the red dragon, which was considered the weakest, won and the white one was dispelled from the tent in which they fought.
The boy explained to Vortigern that the red dragon represented him and the Britons, whilst the white dragon represented the Saxons, and the battle was symbolic of his win over the invaders.
The castle was then built and named after the boy, Dinas Emrys, who went on to become known as Merlin the Magician. Although the castle is no longer there, the hillside is now known as Dinas Emrys.
What Happened to the Castle at Dinas Emrys?
Whether or not the folk tale is true remains to be seen, but archaeologists conclude that there was a hillfort built on the site sometime between the 3rd and 6th centuries.
The site has been used many times over the years, due to its strategic position, and you can still see the remains of a 12th-century tower there today.
So, what happened to the fort? Well, the charcoal found in the base of the tower suggests it was burnt down.
Published: 23 July 2022