Wales Guidebook

A Brief History of Caerphilly Castle

KW
Kieren Windsor

Kieren is the founder of Wales Guidebook. A Welshman born and bred, he has lived and travelled across Wales and now his full-time passion is sharing his favourite experiences and travel tips.

Caerphilly Castle 5

Caerphilly Castle is the second-largest castle in Britain and one of the mightiest medieval fortresses in Western Europe.

In this guide, I'm going to give you a rundown of the history of Caerphilly Castle, from when it was built to its leaning tower, and I'll even tell you about its resident ghost.

Note: If you are looking for information about visiting the castle, my Caerphilly Castle Visitors Guide might be a better resource.

How Old is Caerphilly Castle?

Caerphilly Castle is over 750 years old. Building began in 1268 and was completed by 1277.

A second phase of building work took place later in the century to add further defences, this was completed by 1290 (source: World History Encyclopedia).

Caerphilly Castle 1
© Wales Guidebook

Who Built Caerphilly Castle?

Caerphilly Castle was built by Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Gloucester and Hertford, also known as 'Red Gilbert' due to the colour of his hair.


What Type of Castle is Caerphilly Castle?

Caerphilly Castle is an example of a concentric castle design with its double ring of defence walls, each adorned with round towers, square towers, and fortified gateways.

The walls of the castle are made of pennant sandstone, and it's built on a natural gravel bank in the local river basin (source: Caerphilly Castle - Wikipedia.).

It was one of the first concentric castles in the United Kingdom and is thought to have inspired many of Edward I's castles in North Wales which were built shortly after.

Gilbert’s wonderful architectural creation would likely have cost more to build than other significant castles built in Wales during the 13th century, due to its size and complicated water defences (source: Wikipedia).

Caerphilly Castle Panoramic View
© Wales Guidebook

History of Caerphilly Castle

Caerphilly Castle was the family home of the De Clares from its inception in 1277 until 1314.

It then passed through the hands of many noble families including the Despensers, the De Beauchamps, and the Nevilles.

Throughout this time, the castle was involved in several conflicts. Most notably, it was taken for several years by Isabella of France in 1327 and later by the forces of Owain Glyndŵr during his uprising in the early 15th century.

In 1486 Caerphilly Castle fell into the hands of the Tudors, a Welsh family who held the English throne. However, the Tudors did not care for the castle and over the next few centuries, it fell into a state of disrepair.

The final straw came in 1583 when the castle was leased to Thomas Lewis who took the stone and used it to build his family home.

However, Caerphilly Castle's fortunes changed in 1776 when it fell into the hands of the Bute family. A powerful and influential family in South Wales who also owned Cardiff Castle and Castell Coch.

Although they did not live in the castle (their family home was on the Isle of Bute in Scotland), they slowly restored it and re-flooded the lakes which had dried up.

In 1947, the castle fell into the hands of the 5th Marquess of Bute. However, to avoid considerable inheritance tax, he sold off much of the estate and gifted Caerphilly Castle to the state.

Today, the castle is under the care of CADW, the part of the Welsh Government which looks after historic buildings. It's open to the public and is Caerphilly's top tourist attraction.

Caerphilly Castle 5
© Wales Guidebook

What was Caerphilly Castle used for?

As well as being home to noble families and their officers and servants, the castle had a significant role in the life of Caerphilly folk.

One of my favourite facts about Caerphilly Castle is that the locals have always found interesting uses for the structure.

It served as a local jail in the 15th century and was used not just for the town's eisteddfodau and religious rallies in the 19th century, but also for festivals, concerts, military tattoos, and horticulture displays.

Caerphilly Castle 3
© Wales Guidebook

What is Caerphilly Castle Famous for?

Caerphilly Castle is famous for being the largest castle in Wales with impenetrable fortifications which have allowed it to withstand several sieges.

More recently, it's also become well-known for its leaning tower which has an angle of more than 10 degrees due to subsidence. That's more than twice as much as the leaning tower of Pisa!

A 6-metre tall statue of the 4th Marquess of Bute supports the tower. He was responsible for significant restoration work carried out between 1928 -1939.

Caerphilly Castle Leaning Tower
© Wales Guidebook

Caerphilly Castle Myths and Legends

Here are two myths associated with Caerphilly Castle:

1. The Ghost of the Green Lady

Many believe that the castle is haunted with witches and goblins among those that roam the corridors. But, the most famous spiritual resident at Caerphilly Castle is the Green Lady (source: W. Sikes, Rambles and Studies in Old South Wales, P.41, 1881). But who is she?

Gilbert married Princess Alice of Angouleme (in southwest France). Alice was the niece of Henry II who was believed to be a cultured lady with a strong personality. She grew to despise her husband's combative demeanour and unfortunately fell in love with the dashing Welsh Prince of Brithdir.

Gilbert found out about the princess's forbidden love and she was sent back to France. The Prince was soon swinging from a noose at Gilbert’s command and the vengeful husband dispatched a courier to France to inform Alice of the killing of her lover. She is said to have dropped dead on the spot due to the shock of the news and a broken heart.

Alice’s restless ghost has since haunted the ramparts of Caerphilly Castle. She can be seen dressed in a finely woven green dress, to symbolise Gilbert's envy. Locals say that on moonlit nights she appears on the walls.


2. The Cadw Dragons' Tale

Dewi, the Welsh Dragon, is said to have broken the banks of Caerphilly Castle on the 1st of March 2016 (St. David’s Day) and met with Dwynwen (the Caernarfon Dragon) the following year at Caernarfon Castle, where they fell ‘cwtched’ (Welsh for cuddled) and fell in love (source: CADW).

You can visit Dewi, Dwynwen, and their baby dragons at their lair in Caerphilly Castle (near the leaning tower). You may also see their smoke, hear their snores, and hear their tale (source: Wales Online).


Published: 29 June 2022 · Last updated: 10 October 2023