Wales Guidebook

What is the Welsh National Dress? [History of the Welsh Costume]

KW
Kieren Windsor

Kieren is the founder of Wales Guidebook. A Welshman born and bred, he has lived and travelled across Wales and now his full-time passion is sharing his favourite experiences and travel tips.

St fagans 4

If you’ve wandered past a souvenir shop in Wales, you’ll have seen small dolls wearing gowns, aprons, and tall black hats. This costume is known as the ‘Welsh Lady’ and is based on the traditional outfit once worn by women in Wales.

In this article, I’ll break down all the pieces of clothing that make up the Welsh National Dress and explain how it originated.

What is the Welsh National Dress?

The Welsh National Dress is a traditional costume that was worn by women in rural areas of Wales in the early 19th century.

St fagans 4
© Wales Guidebook

The costume is no longer worn today on a daily basis, however, it has become a national symbol of Wales and is often worn by young girls during celebrations such as St David’s Day or by performers at the National Eisteddfod.

The costume consists of a bedgown made from wool, worn over a corset. This is teamed with a printed neckerchief, a petticoat, an apron, knitted stockings, and a red cloak. The most iconic part of the costume is the tall black hat.


Elements of the Welsh National Dress

Here are the main elements that make up the Welsh National Dress:

  • Bedgown: A loose-fitting dress that is gathered at the waist. It is usually red or black and is often decorated with embroidery or lace. There were various styles of gowns including long, loose gowns, short gowns, or a two-piece gown with a fitted bodice at the top (like a corset) and long skirts.
  • Petticoat: A shorter, underskirt that is also made of wool. It is usually white or black, and can be plain or patterned.
  • Apron: A triangular piece of fabric that is worn over the front of the dress. It is usually made of a contrasting colour, such as white or red.
  • Stockings: Knitted and are usually black or white.
  • Cloak: A red, caped cloak.
  • Hat: A tall black hat, usually made from felt, with a cylindrical crown and a wide brim. It is often decorated with ribbons or flowers. It is often known as the ‘Welsh Hat’.
Welsh Lady Manequin in Fishguard
© Wales Guidebook
Welsh Ladies on the Fishguard Tapestry
© Wales Guidebook

History of the Welsh National Dress

Here is a timeline breaking down the establishment and decline of the Welsh National Dress.

Prior to the 19th Century:

  • No distinct Welsh national costume existed.
  • Rural women in Wales wore a form of bedgown made from wool, influenced by 18th-century fashion. This garment was worn over a corset and paired with various accessories.

Early 19th Century:

  • Lady Llanover from Gwent in South Wales (the wife of MP Benjamin Hall) became influential in promoting the idea of Welsh identity and a national dress for Wales.
  • In 1834, Lady Llanover, under her bardic name 'Gwenynen Gwent’ won best essay at the Royal Eisteddfod and Music Festival of Dyfed and Monmouth for her essay about the advantages of preserving the Welsh language and national costume of Wales.
  • This essay formed the basis of the national costume described above.

Mid-19th Century:

  • The adoption of the Welsh national costume gains momentum.
  • Lady Llanover's efforts coincide with the growth of Welsh nationalism, which is driven by concerns about industrialisation and its impact on agriculture in Wales.
  • The costume is made primarily from wool, which benefits the Welsh wool industry.

Late 19th Century (1880s):

  • The popularity of wearing the traditional Welsh dress starts to decline.
  • The Welsh costume transitions from being an everyday garment to being worn mainly to preserve tradition and celebrate Welsh identity.

Today:

  • The Welsh costume is typically only worn on St. David's Day and by performers at concerts and eisteddfodau.
  • The Welsh national dress has also become an essential part of the tourism industry, with dolls dressed in Welsh costumes serving as popular Welsh gifts and souvenirs.
Welsh Lady Doll
© Wales Guidebook

Welsh Men’s Traditional Costume

When referring to the Welsh National Dress, we are usually talking about the women’s costume because this was so unique.

Welsh men also had a traditional way of dressing, although this was very similar to the traditional costume worn by men in England so it’s not as distinctive.

Traditionally, Welsh men would wear a jacket and waistcoat, a neckerchief, a pair of breeches, woollen stockings and a black felt bowler hat.


What is a Welsh Lady?

The ‘Welsh Lady’ is a nickname given to a woman wearing the Welsh National Costume from the 19th century.

What is a Welsh Lady’s hat called?

The tall black hat traditionally worn as part of the Welsh National Costume does not have an official name but is commonly referred to as the ‘Welsh Hat’ or ‘Het Gymreig’ in Welsh.

Published: 22 August 2023